My Halo

Done!

Well, that went smoothly. Much better than I expected. I could have done it a few days earlier, but in the end I'm glad I waited until today. Skin had grown back, and I was more determined this time round to climb it. I had a couple of top ropes, with less disco leg than a dead Elvis. Compare this to friday (or at least I think it was) where I was shaking like hell, couldn't remember a single move and was frozen. Ian led it that day after 1 fall onto the RP3 which stayed put and every skyhook he placed fell off as soon as he passed them!
I led it on the first attempt at the lead, although I shouldn't be surprised as I had prepared properly for the headpoint. My internal monologue went something like this: "I'm going to climb this, I'm going to climb this", which really helped. Not once did I think about falling or the consequences and by the time I'd passed the crux, leaving me with one thin move and easy climbing to the top, I'd relaxed quite a bit and was feeling quite chatty and jolly, and not once did I think "Oh god, what the hell am I doing on an E7? I'm totally out of my depth" etc etc.
I think I can take quite a lot out of this success. For one thing, I've only been climbing on a regular basis since April last year and already I'm up to E7. I'm not saying I'm a competent E7 climber. Or even an E5-6 comfortable leader ( both grades I'm yet to climb). But climbed an E7 I have. What takes most people years to complete has taken me just 10 months. Do I have a right to brag? Or am I pushing the grade far too early and going to end up killing myself or injuring myself on something I'm completely out of my depth on? But I'm pretty confident I know my limits at this point. I'm in no hurry to prove myself or push myself too early. Mentally, I already feel more confident. The pysche I've been looking for is back! I would definitely recommend the "I'm going to climb this" chant inside your head. I think I'll be adopting this on future redpoints and onsights.

So what next? I've already reached one of my goals (17 days into the year!). Do I now abandon building on this milestone and start working on the other goals I've set myself? Or do I go ahead with this confidence and my ability and try some other projects? Dawes of Perception, Raped by Affection come to mind. Both E7 6c, both a technical grade harder than My Halo, and just as badly protected. Maybe I should just throw a rope down them and see how I feel. It's still slate season, so I can put my mind to either building on E7 or going for an E6 onsight. I feel confident enough in my abilities to do both. The sport goals might have to wait until it gets warmer and drier.

Another bit of good news is that I've got an interview with Plas y Brenin for the Centre Assistant job. Should have had an email confirming it before christmas but had nothing. I gave up hope until I got a call today saying I've got an interview on wednesday. Not much time to prepare! So obviously, the best way I can prepare is to go climbing so thats my plan for tomorrow. Also my axes are due tomorrow. Bring on the scottish winter OCH AYE!