Had a bad week. Haven't felt like doing anything. Went for an interview in Plas-y-Brenin for the centre assistant job, really wanted it, and nailed it (or so I thought). Phoned parents to tell them how it went, and got told my taid had died that morning.
I got a call from PYB today who told me I didn't get the job because I wasn't experienced 'all-round'. Fuckety Fuck. So back to the drawing board to see what I can improve on by November when I can apply again. I've had a look at sea kayaks. Shame they're a tad expensive but I think it's something I'll enjoy.
Went to the quarry with Ian today as well. Held his ropes, but felt like crap and didn't have the mynadd to climb anything. No idea how long it'll last but for now I just don't give a rats arse.
Monday, 24 January 2011
Monday, 17 January 2011
My Halo
 |
| Done! |
Well, that went smoothly. Much better than I expected. I could have done it a few days earlier, but in the end I'm glad I waited until today. Skin had grown back, and I was more determined this time round to climb it. I had a couple of top ropes, with less disco leg than a dead Elvis. Compare this to friday (or at least I think it was) where I was shaking like hell, couldn't remember a single move and was frozen. Ian led it that day after 1 fall onto the RP3 which stayed put and every skyhook he placed fell off as soon as he passed them!
I led it on the first attempt at the lead, although I shouldn't be surprised as I had prepared properly for the headpoint. My internal monologue went something like this: "I'm going to climb this, I'm going to climb this", which really helped. Not once did I think about falling or the consequences and by the time I'd passed the crux, leaving me with one thin move and easy climbing to the top, I'd relaxed quite a bit and was feeling quite chatty and jolly, and not once did I think "Oh god, what the hell am I doing on an E7? I'm totally out of my depth" etc etc.
I think I can take quite a lot out of this success. For one thing, I've only been climbing on a regular basis since April last year and already I'm up to E7. I'm not saying I'm a competent E7 climber. Or even an E5-6 comfortable leader ( both grades I'm yet to climb). But climbed an E7 I have. What takes most people years to complete has taken me just 10 months. Do I have a right to brag? Or am I pushing the grade far too early and going to end up killing myself or injuring myself on something I'm completely out of my depth on? But I'm pretty confident I know my limits at this point. I'm in no hurry to prove myself or push myself too early. Mentally, I already feel more confident. The pysche I've been looking for is back! I would definitely recommend the "I'm going to climb this" chant inside your head. I think I'll be adopting this on future redpoints and onsights.
So what next? I've already reached one of my goals (17 days into the year!). Do I now abandon building on this milestone and start working on the other goals I've set myself? Or do I go ahead with this confidence and my ability and try some other projects? Dawes of Perception, Raped by Affection come to mind. Both E7 6c, both a technical grade harder than My Halo, and just as badly protected. Maybe I should just throw a rope down them and see how I feel. It's still slate season, so I can put my mind to either building on E7 or going for an E6 onsight. I feel confident enough in my abilities to do both. The sport goals might have to wait until it gets warmer and drier.
Another bit of good news is that I've got an interview with Plas y Brenin for the Centre Assistant job. Should have had an email confirming it before christmas but had nothing. I gave up hope until I got a call today saying I've got an interview on wednesday. Not much time to prepare! So obviously, the best way I can prepare is to go climbing so thats my plan for tomorrow. Also my axes are due tomorrow. Bring on the scottish winter OCH AYE!
Tuesday, 11 January 2011
"Sunny Intervals"
That was the weather forecast for today. No rain at all. Yet it's been raining since yesterday night. What gives, BBC? It was exactly the same last thursday. Groundhog day.
Got up, psyched as hell, going to the quarry for a go on My Halo, maybe even a cheeky headpoint to get a good start to the year. Was supposed to be in bus stop by 10, got moved to 11 to let it dry off a bit and let the weather clear. BBC weather still saying it was clear. Went up there; grey clouds, no rain. Unpacked, started walking, no rain.
As soon as we were in view of the quarry it started pissing it down. Just like last week. It was an instant psyche killer. Still, we percevered and I managed to check out the gear placements: a dodgy RP3 and a couple of skyhooks that'll get in the way. Still no real climbing done in 2011. Bugger.
Got up, psyched as hell, going to the quarry for a go on My Halo, maybe even a cheeky headpoint to get a good start to the year. Was supposed to be in bus stop by 10, got moved to 11 to let it dry off a bit and let the weather clear. BBC weather still saying it was clear. Went up there; grey clouds, no rain. Unpacked, started walking, no rain.
As soon as we were in view of the quarry it started pissing it down. Just like last week. It was an instant psyche killer. Still, we percevered and I managed to check out the gear placements: a dodgy RP3 and a couple of skyhooks that'll get in the way. Still no real climbing done in 2011. Bugger.
 |
| The weather being a complete twat |
Thursday, 6 January 2011
Post, the first.
So here I am, taking the plunge with a new blog. I've been toying with starting one for a while, mainly to motivate myself after a mixed 2010. And what better time to start something new than the new year? So here it is. I should probably explain what brought me to the decision of starting a blog:
2010 was an interesting year for me. After trying in the past to climb regularly, the usual setbacks reared their heads. Recurring injuries, lack of partners, work, weather, depression, exams and confidence all played their part in annoying the hell out of me and stopping my meteoric rise through the grades. I thought I would never get to climb on a regular basis, and constant reading of UKC forums and scanning of the photos merely cemented the fact that I was lacking in the motivation/confidence compared to even the most armchair of climbers. A chance opportunity to climb with a knowledgeable climbing partner saw me regain some of my former glory (that being flashing 6c+s at the wall without any effort) albeit only slightly.
Another lucky chance came by again in April, responding to a 'partner needed' post on UKC saw me climb again in the Dinorwic quarry, with a climbing coach no less! What was once a distant dream, suddenly became reality as I climbed my first 7a, and another straight after. Ecstatic could only begin to describe how I felt as I was moving again on rock, scrabbling and puffing my way up the slab yes, but it was a start. Thus began a good few months of climbing and steadily building experience, confidence and a pile of equipment. I climbed on the Great Orme, Tremadog, Moelwyns, Holyhead Mountain, Rhoscolyn, Dinas Rock, Benllech, Almscliff and a lot in the quarry. I decided I'd set some quite high goals for myself, high, in the context that I had only been climbing for a month or two. I don't know whether I knew I would succeed at that time or not, but lifted by the recent success in the quarries I decided they were attainable.
And lo and behold, December 2010 finished and I had unbelievably notched up some (if i say so myself) impressive numbers for someone of my experience in the climbing world. I also managed a 50 mile ultramarathon without any training. So a success, yes, but sitting here I can't help but think that I could have made more of my year. Was my heart completely into my climbing? Probably not. Did I make enough effort when I was climbing? No. My work rate has been woeful, and was even pointed out to me. I knew in the back of my mind that I wasn't going at it the way a fanatic climber keen on improvement would be, but even now I don't know why I refused that second top rope or why I declined a chance to climb a certain route with no real excuse not to. I of course regret it now, but what good does that do? Could I be climbing harder than I am if I had put that extra 10% in? Definitely. So 2010 has left me with a quite a few negatives, that have made me wonder if my heart is really in my climbing. But I can also take a few positives from the past year.
I made an active effort to climb more, mostly thanks to my climbing partners, but of course I've got to take some credit. I achieved my goals of climbing E4, 7a and V5. I enjoyed every minute of it. I was having a massive crisis before my trip to Antalya. I thought I wasn't good enough; that I would fail miserably and people would look down on me and that I should just give up on getting better at climbing. It hampered me in my first few days, where I climbed a few routes but kept making up excuses not to climb that one extra route of the day. My climbing partner Ian, then pointed out my problems. One of them being my work rate. I was quite embarrassed, but he was right. I decided to work on this and ended up onsighting a 7a! Credit to Ian there. Clipping that lower off was the boost I needed to get my mind and my climbing back on track.
And that is the reason for my blog. To document my progress and to keep the psyche high. Documenting my goals and my weaknesses for all to see will hoepfully keep me going from the 1st of January 2011 onwards and upwards. It will also get me out running and walking so I'll actually have something to write about when I don't climb. This blog is for me, but I'll try to make it interesting in case anyone does come across it. Hopefully you didn't find this too waffling but I just needed to get that out of the way.
2010 was an interesting year for me. After trying in the past to climb regularly, the usual setbacks reared their heads. Recurring injuries, lack of partners, work, weather, depression, exams and confidence all played their part in annoying the hell out of me and stopping my meteoric rise through the grades. I thought I would never get to climb on a regular basis, and constant reading of UKC forums and scanning of the photos merely cemented the fact that I was lacking in the motivation/confidence compared to even the most armchair of climbers. A chance opportunity to climb with a knowledgeable climbing partner saw me regain some of my former glory (that being flashing 6c+s at the wall without any effort) albeit only slightly.
Another lucky chance came by again in April, responding to a 'partner needed' post on UKC saw me climb again in the Dinorwic quarry, with a climbing coach no less! What was once a distant dream, suddenly became reality as I climbed my first 7a, and another straight after. Ecstatic could only begin to describe how I felt as I was moving again on rock, scrabbling and puffing my way up the slab yes, but it was a start. Thus began a good few months of climbing and steadily building experience, confidence and a pile of equipment. I climbed on the Great Orme, Tremadog, Moelwyns, Holyhead Mountain, Rhoscolyn, Dinas Rock, Benllech, Almscliff and a lot in the quarry. I decided I'd set some quite high goals for myself, high, in the context that I had only been climbing for a month or two. I don't know whether I knew I would succeed at that time or not, but lifted by the recent success in the quarries I decided they were attainable.
And lo and behold, December 2010 finished and I had unbelievably notched up some (if i say so myself) impressive numbers for someone of my experience in the climbing world. I also managed a 50 mile ultramarathon without any training. So a success, yes, but sitting here I can't help but think that I could have made more of my year. Was my heart completely into my climbing? Probably not. Did I make enough effort when I was climbing? No. My work rate has been woeful, and was even pointed out to me. I knew in the back of my mind that I wasn't going at it the way a fanatic climber keen on improvement would be, but even now I don't know why I refused that second top rope or why I declined a chance to climb a certain route with no real excuse not to. I of course regret it now, but what good does that do? Could I be climbing harder than I am if I had put that extra 10% in? Definitely. So 2010 has left me with a quite a few negatives, that have made me wonder if my heart is really in my climbing. But I can also take a few positives from the past year.
I made an active effort to climb more, mostly thanks to my climbing partners, but of course I've got to take some credit. I achieved my goals of climbing E4, 7a and V5. I enjoyed every minute of it. I was having a massive crisis before my trip to Antalya. I thought I wasn't good enough; that I would fail miserably and people would look down on me and that I should just give up on getting better at climbing. It hampered me in my first few days, where I climbed a few routes but kept making up excuses not to climb that one extra route of the day. My climbing partner Ian, then pointed out my problems. One of them being my work rate. I was quite embarrassed, but he was right. I decided to work on this and ended up onsighting a 7a! Credit to Ian there. Clipping that lower off was the boost I needed to get my mind and my climbing back on track.
And that is the reason for my blog. To document my progress and to keep the psyche high. Documenting my goals and my weaknesses for all to see will hoepfully keep me going from the 1st of January 2011 onwards and upwards. It will also get me out running and walking so I'll actually have something to write about when I don't climb. This blog is for me, but I'll try to make it interesting in case anyone does come across it. Hopefully you didn't find this too waffling but I just needed to get that out of the way.
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