Grit and Slate fun

Was in Sheffield the previous weekend for the CWIF. I've never seen a climbing competition let alone taken part in one. All in all I found the experience great, except when I realised that I don't usually like bouldering and that almost everyone there was a wad or on their way to becoming one. So it didn't surprise me when I placed 154th. But hell, I only competed for a laugh. Got told I had good technique, but poor strength. I knew this already.
Ioan didn't qualify, so we headed off to Stanage. No pictures as the phone had run out of batteries, but the views were stunning. Shame about the rock we were climbing on. It was nice to try somewhere new, but grit really doesn't get my heart pumping and my hands sweaty. Not a bad day out, but the rock is definitely overhyped. Plus stanage looks like a massive turd that some giant has stepped on.
Cue my return to the quarry, and my forage for a hard route to work. Had been told by Caff that Concord Dawn (F8a) was low in the grade, so Ian and me have chosen to work it. It's not like a usual slate slab. It's almost vertical with powerful moves, large handholds and nothing for your feet. After having a quick toprope, I had all the moves but one sussed. I also pissed the top crux first go. Don't know how I managed that! Ian then kicked a massive flake off, reducing a poor crimp to an even worse state. Worse still is the hollow sounds coming from parts of the climb which could, if these bits fell off, drastically alter the climbing. And, oh, what climbing it is! Really nice technical moves and quite steep, I'm really psyched for this. The smile that I couldn't wipe off my face said it all. The desperate climbing also made for some odd sound effects from both Ian and me! This will probably get done before Easter; now that gets my heart racing and my palms sweaty. Balls to grit!