To me, bloody fingers are always a good sign. Had an excellent couple of days climbing and have sore and bloodied hands to prove it. Managed to get a couple of days off to climb (after doing 48 hour weeks for the past month). Yesterday I went to Never Never Land with Ian just tick off a few routes I've been wanting to do. Having not lead anything properly since the 8th of march, I thought I'd be in for a bit of a shock. First up was a new route, Swiss Air F6c. I was a bit apprehensive at first due to the lack of practice, but got on it anyway. Turned out to be a nice steady route with simple climbing and some interesting features. Proably worth F6b/+. My attention then turned to the main attraction of the soaring slab round the corner to our right. The routes I was interested in were Khubla Khan E46b and Small (or is it short) Stories E46a. Both are quite run out with some ground fall - big pendulum swings. Decided I'd go for Stories first, as I'd heard it had excellent climbing. I wasn't dissapointed. Quite sustained, with some interesting thin moves and would probably go at 7a as a sport route. So this was very good onsight lead for me. Didn't have much of the collywobbles, even going for the high reach to finish.
Second route was Khubla, looking a tad easier, with natural protection and the crux right next to a bolt. The 6b section went smoothly (it's probably 6a) and was about VS climbing with a few bits of pro that weren't very good, up to the last move that felt quite spicy, especially when, because I was using a single rope, as I moved right all my gear down to the bolt fell out, leaving me with a 5c move to do to safety, with the prospect of an almighty ground fall if i cocked it up. As you can guess, I managed it. Hooking the big spike with a sling was quite a relief!
Today, I was looking forward to climbing on the Rainbow slab, but as Ian's back was playing up, I settled for some carpentry in my grandparents workshop. I was quite surprised and very happy to get a call from Ioan. He was up in the pass and keen for some climbing. I shot up there as fast as you can in an underpowered Peugeot, and we had a short walk up to Bryn Hel. I've been looking for this place for a while, as it looked good in the guide, and was tucked away in a nice little spot. We got spanked, completely and utterly. The grades felt quite stiff, and it wasn't the cleanest of venues. The climbing may have been stiff, but it was still enjoyable and my fingers got completely destroyed as I shoved and cammed them into minging cracks and slowly peeled off, cursing my ineptitude. We soon gave up after Ioan had a quick play on Corridors of Power, a Dave Noden problem, not a very obvious or aesthetic climb, but a good find nonetheless, looks like it climbs well. Hopefully I'll be able to give it a go in the future.
Had a look at Jerry's Roof as well, as I'd never been there, and got a guided tour of the routes. Gnarly. It's just complete power all the way. Didn't do too badly for someone who climbs slabs day in, day out, but it gives me something to work on and get me into a more of an all-rounder, then I can tackle the Cave of Justice without looking like a complete punter, and get stronger for my trip to Ceuse!
Tuesday 29 March 2011
Tuesday 15 March 2011
Grit and Slate fun
Was in Sheffield the previous weekend for the CWIF. I've never seen a climbing competition let alone taken part in one. All in all I found the experience great, except when I realised that I don't usually like bouldering and that almost everyone there was a wad or on their way to becoming one. So it didn't surprise me when I placed 154th. But hell, I only competed for a laugh. Got told I had good technique, but poor strength. I knew this already.
Ioan didn't qualify, so we headed off to Stanage. No pictures as the phone had run out of batteries, but the views were stunning. Shame about the rock we were climbing on. It was nice to try somewhere new, but grit really doesn't get my heart pumping and my hands sweaty. Not a bad day out, but the rock is definitely overhyped. Plus stanage looks like a massive turd that some giant has stepped on.
Cue my return to the quarry, and my forage for a hard route to work. Had been told by Caff that Concord Dawn (F8a) was low in the grade, so Ian and me have chosen to work it. It's not like a usual slate slab. It's almost vertical with powerful moves, large handholds and nothing for your feet. After having a quick toprope, I had all the moves but one sussed. I also pissed the top crux first go. Don't know how I managed that! Ian then kicked a massive flake off, reducing a poor crimp to an even worse state. Worse still is the hollow sounds coming from parts of the climb which could, if these bits fell off, drastically alter the climbing. And, oh, what climbing it is! Really nice technical moves and quite steep, I'm really psyched for this. The smile that I couldn't wipe off my face said it all. The desperate climbing also made for some odd sound effects from both Ian and me! This will probably get done before Easter; now that gets my heart racing and my palms sweaty. Balls to grit!
Ioan didn't qualify, so we headed off to Stanage. No pictures as the phone had run out of batteries, but the views were stunning. Shame about the rock we were climbing on. It was nice to try somewhere new, but grit really doesn't get my heart pumping and my hands sweaty. Not a bad day out, but the rock is definitely overhyped. Plus stanage looks like a massive turd that some giant has stepped on.
Cue my return to the quarry, and my forage for a hard route to work. Had been told by Caff that Concord Dawn (F8a) was low in the grade, so Ian and me have chosen to work it. It's not like a usual slate slab. It's almost vertical with powerful moves, large handholds and nothing for your feet. After having a quick toprope, I had all the moves but one sussed. I also pissed the top crux first go. Don't know how I managed that! Ian then kicked a massive flake off, reducing a poor crimp to an even worse state. Worse still is the hollow sounds coming from parts of the climb which could, if these bits fell off, drastically alter the climbing. And, oh, what climbing it is! Really nice technical moves and quite steep, I'm really psyched for this. The smile that I couldn't wipe off my face said it all. The desperate climbing also made for some odd sound effects from both Ian and me! This will probably get done before Easter; now that gets my heart racing and my palms sweaty. Balls to grit!
Wednesday 2 March 2011
Pembroke
Took a trip down to Pembroke with a friend this previous weekend. The idea was to go down early on the friday, get a few routes in. We managed to get down reasonably unscathed (so long as 3 unfair points and a £60 fine isn't the end of the world for Doyle) but the weather was seriously against us. Had a walk around, and what a place! Some of the formations like Huntsmans leap and Stennis Ford gave me the willies without me even climbing in them. That, and the area is used as a military firing zone!
We decided to save a bit of money by camping in the car:
Wasn't the best sleep I've ever had. Better that than shelling out £100 on a hotel room.
It carried on raining until the early hours of the morning, and once we woke we were greeted by sun beaming in through the condensation soaked windows. Had a quick breakfast and set out to the cliffs. When we got there the signs were promising. A few walls were already drying fast in the increasingly warm sun. We walked over to Bosherton Head which turned out to be dry, and decided to start off on an HVS called Hercules. Ioan led, avoiding the gopping crack that the route usually went up, opting for an easier line up the arete on the left. I was seconding, and we had put the bags on this ledge, away from the unbelievably rough seas:
As I was halfway up the route, a freak wave hit the shelf and started dragging our bags back into the murky depths! Ioans bag stopped well short of the edge, whereas mine was washed far too close to the edge for comfort. Cue a series of screams of desperation from the both of us, a quick descent off the route and a dive onto my bag to stop gear, phone, keys, clothes etc being lost. Then set up a winch system to save the bags from another unexpected trip. Managed to finally finish the route, still couldn't believe how close we'd been to completely ruining the trip.
We decided to head further north to try and escape the rough seas and do a top 50 climb. We had to abseil in, and the sea was just as bad, worse even. We wanted to do Strike Lucky/Lucky Strike E1, but the high waves forced us to make a higher than usual hanging belay to stop us drowning. Ioan led off again, as the route was wet and we were in a very exposed position. We had already been scared silly as the waves were just about hitting us on the belay 20ish metres up, and looked like there were bigger swells on the way. Ioan finished the route, only getting hit by a bit of spray near the top of the route (35-40m high!!) and I had escaped with wet feet. As he was setting up the belay, a massive 20+ ft wave was coming towards me. I had just enough time to roll off a few choice expletives before the wave was crashing above me. I got drenched. My chalk bag was even full to the brim with salt water. Despite being cold and wet, I completed the route fine, minus my dignity of course. Another epic to go with the first! Ioan also said " I've been less scared climbing E7's" which summed it up perfectly
After I'd dried off and picked through the ruin that was the inside of my bag, we went to trevallen. A lot of it was wet, but Ioan spotted an E3, the name of which escapes me, that looked dry. He set up this and was struggling a bit near the crux. It became apparent to me why, when I stuck my fingers in the crack, cammed my fingers in, and subsequently slipped straight out. Somehow he'd managed to frig his way up this gopping crack, good effort! I had a few problems going up it, and realised I seriously need to work on my climbing.
That turned out to be the last route of the day, as we decided to make our way to Cardiff for a wee drinkie poos. It turned out to be a small drink for Ioan with me compensating for his sobriety by having about 8. Needless to say I felt rough the next day. We chose to just drive back, as it was probably dry up in Tremadog or the Pass.
We stopped off in Tremadog, had a quick chat with Eric and we thought it would be a good idea to try the crack pitch of Neb Direct. Went up to the top to ab down, the walk purging me of the toxins from the night before in the form of profusive sweating. Views and weather were stunning. The crack itself wasn't. A birds nest and lots of water made us rethink our tactics. In the end we opted for home.
Well, that was a very eventful and enjoyable trip. Shame I didn't manage to lead anything but that should come in time. It great to climb with someone as good as Ioan though. He's put a lot of effort in and he has incredible natural talent and is keen to share his invaluable knowledge. We're off to Sheffield on Friday for the CWIF bouldering competiton. I've been talked into entering for some reason. A V4 climber doesn't belong in there, amongst the best and strongest climbers doing the rounds. Ah well, I might learn something. Don't get talked into entering the CWIF's, probably?
We decided to save a bit of money by camping in the car:
 |
| Luxury! |
 |
| Psyched! |
 |
| Super Psyched! |
It carried on raining until the early hours of the morning, and once we woke we were greeted by sun beaming in through the condensation soaked windows. Had a quick breakfast and set out to the cliffs. When we got there the signs were promising. A few walls were already drying fast in the increasingly warm sun. We walked over to Bosherton Head which turned out to be dry, and decided to start off on an HVS called Hercules. Ioan led, avoiding the gopping crack that the route usually went up, opting for an easier line up the arete on the left. I was seconding, and we had put the bags on this ledge, away from the unbelievably rough seas:
 |
| The 'almost ruined our trip' ledge |
We decided to head further north to try and escape the rough seas and do a top 50 climb. We had to abseil in, and the sea was just as bad, worse even. We wanted to do Strike Lucky/Lucky Strike E1, but the high waves forced us to make a higher than usual hanging belay to stop us drowning. Ioan led off again, as the route was wet and we were in a very exposed position. We had already been scared silly as the waves were just about hitting us on the belay 20ish metres up, and looked like there were bigger swells on the way. Ioan finished the route, only getting hit by a bit of spray near the top of the route (35-40m high!!) and I had escaped with wet feet. As he was setting up the belay, a massive 20+ ft wave was coming towards me. I had just enough time to roll off a few choice expletives before the wave was crashing above me. I got drenched. My chalk bag was even full to the brim with salt water. Despite being cold and wet, I completed the route fine, minus my dignity of course. Another epic to go with the first! Ioan also said " I've been less scared climbing E7's" which summed it up perfectly
 | |
| Look at the height of the waves!! |
That turned out to be the last route of the day, as we decided to make our way to Cardiff for a wee drinkie poos. It turned out to be a small drink for Ioan with me compensating for his sobriety by having about 8. Needless to say I felt rough the next day. We chose to just drive back, as it was probably dry up in Tremadog or the Pass.
We stopped off in Tremadog, had a quick chat with Eric and we thought it would be a good idea to try the crack pitch of Neb Direct. Went up to the top to ab down, the walk purging me of the toxins from the night before in the form of profusive sweating. Views and weather were stunning. The crack itself wasn't. A birds nest and lots of water made us rethink our tactics. In the end we opted for home.
Well, that was a very eventful and enjoyable trip. Shame I didn't manage to lead anything but that should come in time. It great to climb with someone as good as Ioan though. He's put a lot of effort in and he has incredible natural talent and is keen to share his invaluable knowledge. We're off to Sheffield on Friday for the CWIF bouldering competiton. I've been talked into entering for some reason. A V4 climber doesn't belong in there, amongst the best and strongest climbers doing the rounds. Ah well, I might learn something. Don't get talked into entering the CWIF's, probably?
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